Choosing The Right Vlieseline Product In Dressmaking

As my journey in dressmaking progresses, I now realise that there is more than one interfacing to use. Although not very exciting, interfacing is a necessity when dressmaking.

I know I would much rather be buying pretty fabrics, sewing patterns, and trims, but there comes a time when I also need to replenish my interfacing supplies.

Last year, when I really got back into my dressmaking I only ever thought there was one type of interfacing, which you iron on. How wrong I was. It was only when I began sewing with different fabrics and more complex sewing patterns that I realised I needed to up my knowledge in the vast world of interfacing.

I was kindly asked to test out some samples of Vlisesline products and thought I would share them with you. They have a vast range and I didn’t realise how many different types there were.

Types Of Interfacing

So there are three types of interfacing. Iron-on (fusible), woven or sewn in. Not only that, but you then have different weights and structures to choose from.

Types of Weight

Super lightweight, lightweight, medium weight or heavyweight. Choosing the weight depends on what you are making and where it is needed on the garment and how much stability is needed.

3 Types of Structure

Depending on the fabric you are choosing, you also then need to choose the correct interfacing based on this. There is woven, non-woven and stretch interfacing.

Not Just For Dressmaking

Not only used for dressmaking, but it is also brilliant for making home decor projects, patchwork and quilting, bag making and other crafts. There really is interfacing for everything.

Vlieseline products are all coded for ease of referencing and use.

I am obviously going to concentrate on the samples I have tried in my dressmaking.


I tend to use the fusible interfacing in my dressmaking and it is so easy to use. Obviously you need to protect your fabric and iron plate, so make sure you have the right heat setting on your iron. I always test on a scrap piece of the fabric that I am using for that particular sewing project. Some fabrics are more delicate than others and you need to adjust the heat of your iron accordingly. I always use a pressing cloth too.

For my Cielo Top that I made recently, I used H200 a fusible lightweight option that gives stability and structure to small areas. I used it on the neck facings to help keep the shape nice and crisp.


For my Victoria Blouse, that I made for my ‘Sew The Look’ series I am running on my Youtube channel, I chose an embroidered linen viscose fabric. As this was a medium weight fabric, and it had the embroidery running all the way through the fabric, I didn’t need anything too heavyweight for my interfacings. So I used H180 on the cuffs and collar pieces. This is a softer lightweight option and just perfect for this heavier fabric.

I guess it all depends on what you are making, where you are needing the addition of interfacing and what fabric you are using. Obviously, most pattern companies give you all the required notions and interfacings needed to help you beforehand on their pattern instructions.

Stretch Interfacing

I made my La Paz Jacket, by Itch To Stitch Patterns, using a Ponte Roma, which is a medium to heavyweight stretch jersey fabric. I purchased my Ponte Roma fabric from Minerva. They have an amazing selection!

Obviously working with stretch fabric and making a jacket, I needed interfacing that had a stretch and also gave me the stability needed. I used H609, which is a light-weight, soft and bi-elastic fusible weft interlining made of synthetic fibres; extremely elastic both in warp and weft direction.

The La Paz Jacket was quite a complex sewing project and required the use of a stretch interfacing on quite a lot of the pattern pieces. It worked perfectly for what I needed.

La Paz Jacket

I have learnt so much

Oh, how I have learnt so much over the last 12 – 18 months of dressmaking. If you had asked me all this last year I would have been none the wiser and probably just used the one and only fusible interfacing that I had at the time, which was probably as old as the hills. Regardless of whether it was suitable for what I was sewing!

My Interfacing Stash

I am happy to say that I have a good selection of interfacings in my stash now which will cover most of my dressmaking needs. I only ever use Vlieseline, also previously referred to as Vilene. You can purchase a great selection online and in haberdashery stores. I tend to buy mine online and replenish my stocks in one go. I find its best to have plenty of lightweight, medium weight and stretch fusible to hand as there is nothing worse than starting a sewing project only to find you don’t have enough interfacing.

Vliesline Products

Amongst other websites, I can highly recommend www.empressmills.co.uk and www.ladysewandsew.co.uk.

They have a vast selection of Vlieseline products to cater for all your dressmaking, quilting and crafting needs.

So all in all, there is a massive selection of interfacings to choose from and to help you in creating a beautifully made project. I hope I have given you a better insight into what type of Vlieseline product to choose for your next sewing venture!

Happy sewing

Jayne x